Flogging:Size Matters

Flogging:Size Matters

Flagellation, also known as whipping, flogging, or lashing is the act of beating the human body with an implement. The implements used can vary as much as the person(s) which employ this form of play. For the sake of this post, I am going to stick strictly to floggers and leave whips, canes, and switches for a later date, although I do have one of each and enjoy them for different reasons.

As one of my and Mister K’s favourite forms of play, I’ve developed an interest in flogging’s origins as well as the styles of implements that can be used. Flogging was originally a technique used as corporeal punishment but has since been abolished for this purpose in most of the world, with Islamic and many Asian countries being the exception. As it often does, the kink community has taken flogging to claim as their own, giving kinksters a way to apply this once archaic practice. Care should be taken when first starting with this form of play, and as with all forms, consent and communication should be the starting point.

There are different styles and lengths of floggers, as well as materials utilized. While most are made from animal hides such as leather or horsehair, there has been an increase in vegan-friendly materials available on the market. Some of these include paracord, cotton, and rubber. The length of the flogger as well as the materials used can change the sensations received when being flogged, as well as change the effects to the person doing the flogging. If impact play is your thing, there is something for almost everyone.

Practice Makes Perfect

Flogging, like most things, takes practice. Mister K started with a pillow, his aim, to hit the same mark twice. Once he was comfortable with this, he started trying different techniques and aiming farther away. If you have a flogger that is longer than 8 inches, the tails will sometimes not fall where you want them to or twist around each other. Practice can help you become in tune with the instrument, as well as give you a feel for how the tails will fall.

Because flogging is usually done to the back and buttocks, knowing the anatomy of your partner is a must. Avoid hitting the spine (obviously) or the coccyx (tailbone) as much as possible. Heaver floggers can push vertebrate around causing the spine to need to be realigned. Cracking and hairline fractures to the tailbone can occur as well. Bruising of either of these areas can cause discomfort, although it is not uncommon. Above the pelvis sits the kidneys. These bean-shaped organs are beneficial to almost every system in our bodies and should receive as little impact as possible. Damage to your kidneys can cause you to urinate blood as well as create excruciating pain. Remember, all play should be safe, sane, and consensual.

Materials

The materials used will change the floggers’ hit. Lighter floggers are easier to yield and give a stingier sensation, heavier ones can fatigue the arm and wrists and give a more thuddy sensation. Each has its uses, depending on which sensation you are going for. Some people enjoy the sting and some the thud, so the material you choose for your floggers should be considered before purchasing or building.

Natural Materials

Cotton

Some floggers are made from cotton rope. These will not deliver a firm strike unless the ends are knotted, and even then, you will not receive the same blow as a heavier made flogger.  Cotton is a nice way to warm up as well as cool down because even when knotted, a cotton flogger should not be too much to handle. The colours that can be created are limitless and the binding of each tail can differ for personal preference, some being braided, others twisted. Cotton is a great material for beginners or those who are unsure about whether flogging is right for them. It is light and soft enough that they can even be used for sensation play. Being a natural, renewable material, it is often chosen for its versatility.

Animal Hides

Lighter intensity floggers made from hides such as rabbit, deer, and soft suede will make for a lighter(ish) flogger. By doubling up the tails, the flogger weight remains the same, but the lashes feel heavier. The reason for this is more material striking the skin per swing. Lighter floggers are good for beginners, or those who don’t want to have lasting marks. Being lighter, they also allow the yielder to perform for a longer time as the wrist and arms don’t become fatigued too fast.

For a medium intensity flogger, elk, moose, and suede are good choices. They are heavier than the lighter versions and can still deliver a bit of sting, but not as heavy as the heavier intensity floggers, making a pure thud. This is the style I prefer as it gives a nice combination of sensations, but not too much of either.

For a heavier intensity flogger, materials such as bull hide, or buffalo hide will deliver a heavier hit and create the cathartic response that some participants are looking for. For a heavy thud, with a lot of sting, a stock braid flogger will do the trick. Keep in mind that even rabbit fur can create a thud if the tails are doubled or the thickness of each tail is larger than usual.

Many tops will develop a way of yielding that works for them to prevent arm fatigue and wrist injuries that flogging can create. Repetitious movements of the wrist can create long term damage to tendons and ligaments, so selecting a flogger that is not too heavy for your build is an important next step.

Horsehair has a heavy feel to it when held in the hand, but each blow feels stingy as the hairs move around the skin instead of directly impacting it. It can be a nice way to cool down after an intense scene or create a bit of a stingy feel before or during a heavy flogging.  Some floggers will have a combination of heavy materials as well as a lighter core, like horsehair or rabbit fur. The softness of rabbit fur is especially soothing to over-stimulated skin.

Man-Made Materials

Nylon

Nylon is becoming a popular material in the BDSM world. Most nylon floggers are created with nylon rope or paracord. It is an extremely strong and durable material that is easy to clean and maintain. It also holds up well to repetitive use.  Occasionally you will find a nylon flogger that had capped ends on the tails. This prevents the flogger from fraying, as well as creating some extra thud. Other times the ends will be melted. Checking the tail ends regularly should become a part of your maintenance as this will prevent small cuts to the skin from occurring. If you are not bothered by blood or skin tears, nylon floggers are excellent at leaving long-lasting marks and bruising.

Chain

Yes, chain floggers are a thing. If you’re looking for an extremely heavy flogger, this will do it. The links can be small, like those on a necklace, or thicker, like those on a bicycle lock. Chain floggers are obviously a heavier thuddy feel, but they also leave a sting behind and create a mottled bruising. These should not be used by those who are just starting out and even the life timers will tell you that the use of chain floggers should be limited. Due to the areas of the body that flogging impacts, permanent damage can and has occurred.

Rubber/Silicone

Rubber is technically a natural fiber, but with more and more things being man-made (rubber included) I’ve included it here. These styles of floggers are usually specially made and designed for your preference. A short flogger (8 -13 inches) will not create too much of either a thud or sting, whereas a full length (24 inches) will create a similar sensation as a leather flogger. If you are looking for a vegan or animal-friendly option, either of these is a great choice. Most manufacturers and retailers can help you decide what will be best for you. It should be noted that rubber floggers are the stingiest of them all, and leaves marvelous bruises, should that be your thing.

Flogger Length

For most things, I will tell you that size doesn’t matter. But when it comes to floggers, size is important. A shorter length will not give you the same impact as a longer length, the kinetic energy being of greater mass (sounds scientific, doesn’t it? It is). As well, the longer the flogger, the heavier it will be (more material = more weight). As mentioned, the longer floggers are harder to handle, shorter ones not as forceful. There is a way to reach a middle ground.

The shortest of floggers, called minis are generally 8-13 inches. The next length found, known as standard will be between 13 and 16 inches. A double flogger (the tails are doubled, adding to the thud) is generally the same. A long flogger can be up to 24 inches. These are often the most difficult to yield and require a bit more practice.

Flogger Tails

The tails also make a difference in what sensations will be created. A cat-o-nines often have 9-12 tails but can come in short or long versions, whereas a mop flogger can have up to 100 (that sounds as heavy as it is) and are always between 21 and 24 inches in length. The tails will truly decipher whether you get a thud or a sting, so knowing your materials and your victim (I mean volunteer), will make or break yours and your partner’s experience.

Florentine Flogging

This is the art of using two floggers at the same time. These are made in sets and are balanced to each other so they can be used in either hand. Florentine Floggers are usually made from deer hide or elk so they are not overly heavy, making them easier on the wrist, and also helping them stand up against wear and tear. Two-handed flogging takes a lot of practice, especially when using your not so dominant hand, and should only be done when both partners are comfortable with the yielder’s skills.

Handles

The handle of the flogger is just as important as the tails. It should sit comfortably in your hand and help balance the flogger out, but it should also hold the flogger steady. Many floggers are made with a pivoting end so the tail can move around as a whole when being swung, instead of wrapping around each other. While more expensive, the extra cost is worth it as the pivot will make it easier for the yielder to control, as well as creating less resistance and less wear on the wrists. No matter what style of handle chosen, practice is your best bet to a successful outcome.

The Final Impact

There you have it, a short education on floggers and how to choose one that suits you. If you’re interested in making your own, there are plenty of great resources online. I am currently using this. The directions are easy to follow and give space for personal taste.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions when purchasing a flogger. It’s better to ask too many questions than to get into scene and have too many come up. Please be aware of the risks involved with impact play and make sure to inform your partner as well. Consent is one-sided if we’re not made risk-aware. You can make the difference.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the experience of learning something new. When done correctly, flogging can be a lifechanging practice. Happy flogging!

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6 thoughts on “Flogging:Size Matters

  1. We’ve never used a flogger, never knew much about them. Thank you for this post. We found it educational. Not sure they are for us, but if we decide to give it a go we will know quite a bit more about them!

  2. This is such a detailed and informative guide to the varying types of flogger and what to expect. I think this will be so helpful to those wanting to explore further but feel I;g unsure about what sort of flogger to choose. Great post 😊

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